By Kurtis Sinclair
“It’s pretty hard to translate Twin Peaks into a restaurant, especially when it’s a vegetarian one,” says Claire Wyrostok, co-owner of Black Lodge. Wyrostok and her partner Brad MacKinnon recently opened their second location in Mount Pleasant, further embracing the weird and wonderful world of the restaurant industry with a Lynchian twist. They have been serving up Pacific Northwest style fare for the last four years and have built for themselves a sort of cult following. Peakers, or peak freaks, regularly visit Black Lodge on their circuit around all the Twin Peaks destinations.
The new Black Lodge location is considerably larger than the original spot further up Kingsway near Fraser Street. The dining room has cozy cabin booths and is perfect for groups who may have just come back from throwing a frisbee around at Dude Chilling Park, just one block away. The building is more than one hundred years old and is complete with an ornate plaster ceiling and ochre floors. The walls are decorated with campy memorabilia from guests and staff. Black Lodge’s impressive collection is also peppered with garage sale finds and odd-shop treasures. The new restaurant is years in the making and it certainly captures the spooky spirit of the Cascade mountain range.
The new menu features a few new appetizers and some of them are not what they seem. One of their more creative creations is a vegan chicken drumstick made with Seitan. The fake fowl is served with vegan aioli and is shockingly similar to the real thing. They also have a great pulled “Pork” poutine with the tempting option to upgrade from fries to Tatertots. As protagonist Dale Cooper would say, “Nothing beats the taste sensation when maple syrup collides with fake ham!” Black Lodge tactfully creates vegetarian bar food while staying true to the theme of the show. They have gone to great measure to pay homage wherever they can, and it makes for a very unique dining experience. To tie everything together, they have crafted a new cocktail list with the help of James Grant of the restaurant Woodwork in Edmonton. Black Lodge has a knockout beer selection with five rotating brews on tap. Their cherry pie is vegan friendly and will leave you wanting more.
Black Lodge couldn’t have opened at a better time. In May of this year Showtime released the long awaited reboot of the quirky mystery drama Twin Peaks. The new location could attribute much of its success to David Lynch’s new work, but it’s apparent the community that they have created has been behind them every step of the way. Black Lodge has an inclusive and welcoming atmosphere that keeps guests coming back again and again.
If you enjoy punk rock music, vegetables, and ’90s television, It’s a damn fine night out in Mount Pleasant.
The new Black Lodge location can be found at 317 East Broadway in Vancouver.
David Lynch, The Black Lodge, Twin Peaks